Hot Jazz in a Veterans Club Basement in Harlem

On a Sunday afternoon in February, the staccato chords and rousing bass lines of a Hammond B-3 organ shook the walls of American Legion Post 398 in Harlem.

Ba-ba-doo-dee-dee-deep. Bum-ba-ba-ba-bummm.

Hundreds of people had crammed into the humble basement bar to pay tribute to the organ’s owner, the musician Seleno Clarke, who had died in December at 87.

Some said prayers. Some read poems. But mostly they played jazz.

From 3 in the afternoon until 11 p.m., dozens of organists, saxophonists, guitarists, drummers and singers rotated onto the modest stage. They played with verve and abandon, as the crowd hooted and clapped and cried out, “Seleno!”

It might have been a strange sight for an American Legion post. The veterans service organization has struggled to keep up membership nationwide, but Post 398’s reputation as one of the last authentic jazz venues in Harlem has kept its seats full and the atmosphere popping. Every Sunday night for nearly two decades, an unlikely mix of aging veterans, tourists and musicians from around the world have come to enjoy cheap drinks, Southern-style home cooking and jazz.


A photograph of Mr. Clarke, left, hangs on the wall of American Legion Post 398 in Harlem, where the band he formed still plays.

Anthony Geathers for The New York Times

Legion members say Mr. Clarke’s death left an irreplaceable gap in their close-knit community. Today, the organist can still be spotted smiling, always wearing a suit, in many of the photos lining Post 398’s yellow and blue walls. But Mr. Clarke’s former bandmates, on a mission to uphold his legacy, are tightening their sound, broadening their repertory and playing with more enthusiasm than ever.

“Seleno brought people together with his music,” said David Lee Jones, 59, a veteran alto saxophonist who played with Mr. Clarke for 27 years and who now fills his old mentor’s shoes as bandleader. “We want to keep that going. We want to keep jazz going here in Harlem.”

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A Grand Tiki Bar for a Less-Than-Tropical Island, Manhattan

The décor, by Vanessa Guilford, takes deep turquoise as its predominant color note, and includes large murals, teakwood floors, bamboo ceilings, a 30-foot-long lava-rock bar top, and cut-metal screens that evoke Polynesian masks.


Damned to the Depths — made of two rums, absinthe, lime and orange juices, guava purée, bitters and other ingredients — is a salute to the Pearl Diver, a drink from Don the Beachcomber, the 1930s founding bar of the tiki movement.

An Rong Xu for The New York Times

It’s an expansive vision of tiki culture the likes of which New York has not seen since the days of Trader Vic’s and the Hawaiian Room of the Hotel Lexington. “New York’s been waiting for it,” Mr. Miller said. “And honestly, I feel like people have been waiting for me to do it.”

Mr. Miller, 47, is one of perhaps a half-dozen figures who spearheaded the recent tiki renaissance in the United States, and the only one without a bar. Instead, he has spread the aesthetic through an itinerant tropical party called “Tiki Mondays.” The event began in 2011 at the SoHo bar Lani Kai (since closed), and later put in time at the Gold Bar, Mother’s Ruin and Pouring Ribbons.

He worked at ZZ’s Clam Bar, Major Food’s pocket-size cocktail and raw bar in Greenwich Village, and in 2014, the partners asked him to pitch his idea for a bar. For the presentation, Mr. Miller had leis mailed from Hawaii, and brought in an act called the Hula Belly Sisters. It worked.


The Reggae Bus, a tiki take on the Queen’s Park Swizzle, is one of the original drinks to be found at the Polynesian.

An Rong Xu for The New York Times

“My idea was Trader Vic’s meets ‘Mad Men’ meets ‘Pirates of the Caribbean,’” Mr. Miller said. Food will include pu pu platters and what Major Food boasts will be a “best-of-class Crab Rangoon.”

The four-panel folding bar menu, modeled after Trader Vic’s, lists 19 cocktails, four large-format shared drinks (one is served in a fish bowl) and two virgin cocktails. Among them are a few originals Mr. Miller has popularized over the years, like the Double-Barrel Winchester, which employs four different gins to create a panoply of flavors; the Fiddler’s Green, a cross between two classic tiki drinks, the Blue Hawaiian and the Montego Bay, served from a slushie machine; and the Smokin’ Sarong, a mélange of Scotch, coconut, tea and honey.

Speaking of sarongs, Mr. Miller, who promises to be at the Polynesian every day for its first year, will wear one as host, just as he often did at “Tiki Mondays.”

“Everyone knows I will be in a sarong,” he said. “Sarongs will be optional for staff.”

The Polynesian, 400 West 42nd Street, Manhattan.

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Austria’s Far Right Wants the Freedom to Smoke

But it also fits neatly with the Freedom Party’s anti-establishment and quasi-libertarian tilt. “Freedom of choice” is the flip side of a far-right agenda that otherwise seems inclined to dictate to citizens, especially those from minorities, everything from whether they can wear head coverings to whom they should marry.

The push to upend the smoking ban has stirred more than the usual consternation.

Although the European Union does not impose regulations on smoke-free environments, it has made a set of recommendations that has led many members to introduce strict bans on smoking in public places in recent years.

Austria has one of the highest smoking rates among adults in the European Union, and was one of only two member states where the number of adults who smoked regularly did not decrease from 2000 to 2015, according to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development.


The owner of Café Fürth, Helmut Haller, said he followed trends in the United States, Australia and Britain and had never allowed smoking.

Akos Stiller for The New York Times

Thomas Szekeres, the president of the Vienna Medical Association, appeared baffled during an interview in his office. Banning indoor smoking, he said, was not an attempt to single out smokers but a move against “smoking and harming the health of people.”

“People need an example to see what happens when you smoke and that it could happen to them, too,” he said.

Mr. Szekeres has been one of the high-profile backers of the “Don’t Smoke” campaign and has promoted a petition asking the government to think again. It gathered more than 500,000 signatures in the month that followed, in a country of about 8.8 million.

“We want to show the politicians responsible that the people are in favor of a ban on smoking,” Mr. Szekeres said.

The conflicting public currents around the smoking ban have intensified scrutiny of the Freedom Party, which was founded partly by former Nazis after World War II, and what it might do now that it has entered government.

Last December, when Mr. Strache’s party received key portfolios in Austria’s new government, an article in the German weekly “Die Zeit” commented: “They don’t want to bite, just to smoke,” referring to the proverb that barking dogs don’t bite.

The motto Mr. Strache has repeated since he floated the idea of overturning the ban during last year’s election campaign is “freedom of choice instead of forceful state regulation.” Responsible citizens, he has said, must be able to make these choices themselves.

On social media, in between anti-immigrant and nationalistic messages, his party also championed bread-and-butter causes.

Its former presidential candidate, Norbert Hofer, called for “higher tax on motorways for foreigners,” and a regional politician, Gottfried Waldhäusl, promoted “freedom of choice” with a picture of a cup of coffee beside a burning cigarette.


The owners of Café Hummel, a family business, invested thousands of euros in separating smoking and nonsmoking areas. But last year they made the cafe fully nonsmoking.

Akos Stiller for The New York Times

“It’s a policy which in a certain way is not suspicious of being traditionally right-wing,” said Anton Pelinka, a professor of political science at the Central European University in Budapest. “It’s a fight against the new enemy, which is called political correctness.”

The bill that is scheduled to go before parliament is based on the “Berlin model,” named after the German capital, which prohibits smoking in most public places but allows it in smaller establishments and in designated areas.

It includes protective steps like increasing the minimum age for smoking from 16 to 18 and is due to go in front of the country’s Parliament this week.

Unlike in other capitals of Western Europe, in Vienna smoking remains widespread. Not only is the sight of smoking rooms in bars and restaurants common, cigarettes are easily purchased from vending machines in the streets.

Last December, Mr. Strache appeared at a gathering of restaurant owners in a smoke-filled wine bar near Austria’s Parliament. The rally, hosted by the bar’s owner, Heinz Pollischansky, carried the message that restaurant and bar owners opposed the ban.

But Vienna’s gastronomy scene is split over the question. The famous coffee houses on the city’s tourist trail have already banned smoking, in anticipation of this year’s deadline.

Others, like Café Hummel, a family business, have invested thousands of euros in separating smoking and nonsmoking areas — and paid fines after complaints from nonsmoking guests for failing to contain the smoke.

Christine Hummel, the manager, is the third generation in her family at the helm of this classic Viennese establishment. “We’ve been here since 1935, and since 1935 it was smoking,” said Ms. Hummel, who is not a regular smoker but enjoys a cigarette with a glass of wine.

Last year, Ms. Hummel had enough of the complaints and fines and declared her cafe fully nonsmoking. She said she immediately lost many regulars, about 5 percent of the annual clientele, and others cut back on orders. But the decision allowed her to turn to a new clientele.


“It’s like a reward for waking up early”: smokers at Café Europa, in central Vienna.

Akos Stiller for The New York Times

“Times change,” she said. “We have to look toward the future.”

A sign of those changing times is Café Fürth, a small venue that shares its central space with two offices and its own coffee roasting operation.

The owner, Helmut Haller, 30, was on his day off, trying out a new coffee machine and a concoction of iced espresso with blood-orange lemonade. A far cry from the classical coffeehouse proprietor, Mr. Haller said he followed trends in the United States, Australia and Britain and never allowed smoking.

“Global coffee culture is a nonsmoking culture,” he said.

Still, he said he placed his business in the Viennese cafe tradition, which provided a meeting point for great figures of fine arts, literature and philosophy.

“In Austria we’re slower with change,” he said of his country’s position between Germany and the Balkans.

He said that both some residents and visitors had their minds set on a certain idea of Vienna, described with the German word “Gemütlichkeit,” which translates as a broad feeling of comfort or cosiness.

But even many smokers who enjoy a chance to light up see in the ban an opportunity to set themselves free.

One was Philippe Mayer, a 41-year-old musician with blond dreadlocks who had settled into the dimly lit smoking room of Café Europa, in central Vienna, after dropping off his daughter at kindergarten.

“It’s like a reward for waking up early,” Mr. Mayer said. But even as he enjoyed his cigarette, he, like his country, had mixed feelings about it.

“Smoking gives me a kind of feeling like slavery,” he said. “It would be helpful if it were banned.”

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