36 Hours: 36 Hours in Seville


36 Hours

Known for its many festivals, Moorish architectural flourishes and, of course, flamenco, the capital of Spain’s Andalusia region is a buoyant city whose many cultures are reflected in its cuisine, buildings, art and history.

The Aire de Sevilla thermal baths are located inside a 16th-century Mudéjar-style palace.CreditFernando Alda for The New York Times

Seville is more than its Holy Week and Feria celebrations, when prices go up and the lines to major sites like its famed cathedral and Royal Alcázar palace grow longer. The Andalusian capital reveals itself as a walkable — and bikeable — city with layers of its Christian, Muslim and Jewish heritage still visible. Venture beyond the usual church-palace itinerary and discover more of this multicultural history in a startling, but less-visited basilica, in examples of Moorish-Gothic Mudéjar architecture, in minarets that became bell towers and in the remnants of a Jewish cemetery.

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At Casa Cuesta, the pork-cheek stew, an Arab-influenced spinach and chickpea casserole, is an intriguing option.CreditFernando Alda for The New York Times
A procession during the Holy Week in Seville.CreditFernando Alda for The New York Times
Architecture is a large part of Seville’s appeal. The Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art, for instance, is a museum located in a former monastery and ceramics factory.CreditFernando Alda for The New York Times
Mercado de Triana, a bustling food market in Seville.CreditFernando Alda for The New York Times

SUNDAY

11) 11 a.m. SEPHARDIC SCHOLARSHIP

Gain insight into the another aspect of Seville’s past during a walking tour from the Center for Jewish Interpretation. Over roughly two hours, you’ll be introduced to streets that used to be named for the shoemakers and bakers who had lived in the now-vanished community. You will see a convent built in the 14th century on what had been the site of a synagogue, and visit an underground parking garage that displaced all but one of some 300 graves from what had been the Jewish cemetery. The one grave that was not relocated is preserved behind glass at stall No. 9 (22 euros).

12) 2 p.m. SWEET FINALE

For a souvenir that weighs next to nothing, try Inés Rosales Tortas de Aceite. These crisp, sugar-dusted wafers from the Seville region are made with olive oil and come in flavors like orange, cinnamon or anise and sesame. A package of six runs about 2.5 euros at the brand’s shop a few minutes’ walk north of the cathedral.


LODGING

The 50-room Hotel Palacio Villapanés (Calle Santiago 31, 34-954-50-20-63; palaciovillapanes.com; from around 200 euros, without breakfast, off season; hotel prices in Seville rise during festival periods) is a converted 18th-century Sevillian baroque palace with lacelike iron gates and a traditional open, marble-pillared courtyard that doubles as a palm garden and cocktail lounge. Check-in takes place in a quiet antechamber as you sit with a glass of sparkling cava or a cup of tea. Rooms feature wooden flooring and fluffy white duvets and a minibar with all of its contents free, including fizzy sangria in a bottle. Hanging in the large bathrooms are robes you can wear to the basement spa where wet and dry saunas await.

Triana House (Calle Rodrigo de Triana 98; 34-644-889-810; trianahouse.com; from around 170 euros) has no lobby and no communal spaces unless you count the marble staircase, but behind its unassuming exterior are possibly the loveliest and quietest bedrooms on the Triana side of Seville, with a whiff of Art Deco design in its chevron-patterned black and white stone floors. A hearty breakfast that might include cured ham, tomato tapenade, muffins, toast and olive oil is delivered to your door at the requested time. Its six rooms are tastefully decorated according to themes like Paris, Napoli or Beijing.

Susanne Fowler was an editor in the London and Paris offices of The New York Times.

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